As we reefers and aquarists have developed a better understanding of the processes
occurring in our reef tanks, equipment has been developed that mimics
some of the natural conditions. Unfortunately, one major aspect that is one of
the most noticeable aspects of the natural reef --> water movement.
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Natural water movement in the Ocean |
This is unfortunate in that creating adequate water
movement can be one of the relatively least expensive aspects of setting
up a reef tank, and one of the most important. Proper water movement
goes a long way toward helping a reef system thrive.
Why water movement is so important
Organisms present on the reef are accustomed to an environment with
strong water movement. Anyone that has been out diving or snorkeling
along a reef quickly realizes how difficult it is to remain in one spot
due to the force of the water around him or her. This rapid and constant
water movement has caused the life in the sea to develop
physiologically to make use of the water moving around them. This is
especially true of the sessile invertebrates, such as corals and clams,
that we keep in our aquariums. These organisms have developed to make
use of the currents bringing them such things as food, oxygen, and
nutrients, as well as carrying away their waste products.
Most corals have little capacity for removing waste material from
their surface. This is especially true of the small polyped stony
corals, which owing to their relatively small amount of living tissue,
do not waste their energy removing waste material, but rather depend on
the water moving around their surface to clean them. When you look at
the physiology of these corals closely, it can be seen that much of
their body is designed for nutrient capture, while very little is
designed for waste removal.
In addition to providing essential nutrients, and instrumental in waste removal, water movement also influences:
- Growth of corals
- The formation of new coral colonies
- Growth of problematic algae
- Fish health
Growth of corals
Changes in Size: Several authors have reported that new growth of
Acropora
is often spindly relative to the growth of the old colony when this
colony is placed in less strongly moving water (Veron, 1986, Sprung,
1994). However, if the flow is increased, the corals may resume their
original growth pattern, and the speed of growth may also increase if
all other factors remain the same. This increased flow not only
increases the thickness of the new growth, but the previously spindly
growth may thicken as well. Author Dana Riddle has found that the growth
rate of many stony corals could be increased dramatically by increasing
the flow of water around them. Interestingly, his studies were contrary
to the belief that lighting intensity determines growth, in that he
found that strong water movement stimulated faster growth than increased
light intensity.
Changes in Growth Pattern: Water movement may change the growth pattern of some corals. For example,
Acropora palifera
normally grows as thick, unbranched colonies on the portion of the reef
where wave action is greatest (Veron, 1986). However, when placed in
some reef tanks with less water movement, these corals begin to grow in a
more branched manner similar to other
Acropora species.
In my own tank, I have noticed that the optimum appearance of several
corals only occurs when good water movement is present. Yellow Leather
corals from Tonga (
Sarcophyton elegans) only "polyp out" when
the current across their cap is strong. If inadequate water movement is
present, they seem to mucous over more frequently in an attempt to
remove the detritus that settles on their surface, or they develop brown
spots where this detritus settles. The Finger Leather corals (
Sinularia sp.)
tend to orient themselves so as to maximize their exposure to the
current. When the current is proper these corals take on a fuzzy
appearance, while when it is inadequate, they look barren and are almost
devoid of fully extended polyps.
New colony formation
Xenia
colonies grow much faster when the current adequately stimulates them,
but their form also changes as a result of an increase in current. When
water movement is low, the colony has only short polyps close to the
stalk. However, as the water movement increases, the polyps extend out
from the main body to the point that they are four times further out
than when the current is low. The shorter polyped colony also reproduces
at a much slower rate than does a long-polyped colony found in areas of
high water movement. The only thing that I can attribute this to is
that in the long polyped colony, the long polyps occasionally attach
themselves some distance from the stalk and then break off. The polyp
then grows into a new colony. Shorter polyps do not have the opportunity
to attach far from the mother stalk, and as a result, new colonies do
not form from this method. They rely exclusively on the stalk splitting
in half to produce new colonies, and this takes longer.
Problematic algae
Most algal blooms result from excess nutrients being present. In reef
tanks, these patches of algae usually are in spots where there is
little to no water movement. As a result, detritus settles in these
spots. That is why, if algae are plucked from these spots, a cloud of
detritus is usually raised as well. In order to reduce this "algal
oasis," it is necessary to get more water movement over these areas.
Therefore, one of the goals of good water movement is to keep the
detritus in suspension long enough so that much of it can be removed by
the filtration system, or so that it can settle in the sump, where there
is little light, and can be removed later.
In a study conducted at Eilat in the Red Sea, it was found that soft
coral colonies located in areas where sedimentation did not occur due to
strong water movement, grew three times faster than did colonies where
sedimentation was a problem (
National Geographic Explorer, TBS,
May, 1993). This reaction to sedimentation has several applications in
captive reef systems. If sedimentation is allowed to occur on stony
corals, the result will be bleaching in those areas of the coral where
the sediment remains. This bleached area often becomes a site where
detritus settles and soon thereafter, problematic algae begin to grow.
Therefore, strong water movement is essential not only for growth, but
also to keep algae from becoming problematic. In soft corals, when
detritus settles on them, spots develop under the detritus that rot or
cause black spots on the colony which can eventually lead to the coral's
demise.
Fish health
Another often-overlooked aspect of water movement is its effect on
fish health. If you look at the labels of many fish foods, you will find
that one of the largest components is fat. This is an important
component in nature in that fat is quickly converted into energy. This
is great for fish in the wild, as these fish are, for the most part,
very active and require large amounts of energy. If, however, fish are
placed in an environment where they do not have to fight the current,
the result can be the development of fatty deposits, and as a
consequence, a shortened lifespan. Therefore, it is my opinion that
strong water movement will also contribute to fish health and longevity
as well.
Water movement flow patterns
There are three main types of water movement, each with very different characteristics:
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Laminar flow: Laminar flow is straight,
unidirectional flow, like that produced from a powerhead, or at the
latter stages of a wave whose energy has been channeled in one direction
by the reef.
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Surge: Surge is similar, only on a larger scale. To
an observer viewing a school of fish, surge is when the school remains
in the same pocket of water, but due to surge, the pocket of water and
the school of fish suddenly move six feet in one direction, and just as
quickly move back.
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Turbulence: Turbulence is the random flow of water
in multiple directions. Of the three flow patterns, turbulence is the
most desirable and the most difficult to produce (Sprung, 1998).
Choosing equipment to produce water movement
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Importance of a Powerhead for your reef |
Powerheads
For
most of us, the powerhead is a readily available means for introducing
water movement into our tanks. Powerheads are relatively inexpensive and
can produce varying amounts of water movement. Their main shortcoming
is that they only produce laminar currents. These currents can not be
aimed directly onto a coral, as the force is so great that it will cause
the polyps to close, or in the worst case, may literally shear the
tissue right off of the coral colony. Hagen, Aquarium Systems, and Azoo
manufacture some of the standard powerheads. These are good standard
powerheads and with a little ingenuity and some additional electronics,
they can produce more than simply one direction flow.
Powersweep powerhead
An 'oscillating powerhead,' also called a 'powersweep powerhead' has
recently come on the market. It allows water flow to be directed over a
wider area so that the flow no longer is simply directed on one spot.
This powerhead rotates so that the flow that it produces covers a much
broader area. When several of these devices are hooked up, their
patterns of flow can be set up so that they actually do produce a
turbulence pattern similar to that found on a reef. These devices can be
placed anywhere within the tank so their flow can be directed all over,
including behind rocks, so the source of current can be hidden. One thing I personally notice is that powersweeps tend to fail. Eventually they will not "sweep". Maintenance and replacement on this type of powerhead is eminent.
Wavemakers
Another way to achieve proper water movement is with the use of a wavemaker, such as the
SunSun JVP-201B 1585 GPH Dual Aquarium Circulation Pump Wavemaker Powerhead w/ Magnet Clamp Base. A wavemaker makes it possible to get
closer to producing the desired effect by switching powerheads on and
off on a random basis to try and mimic surge.
Using a powerhead and a wavemaker may make it possible to not only
produce laminar currents and surge, but also turbulence as well. To
produce turbulence, it is necessary to direct the flow from the
powerheads either directly onto each other, or so that at least part of
the flow from one is going directly into the path of the other. By
having the powerheads activated randomly, the flow from them will
intersect, producing a random pattern of water movement. There will
still be laminar currents and surge as the powerheads come on, but as
these different flows collide from multiple powerheads, a more random
pattern of water movement with swirls and microsurges closely resembling
turbulence should occur.
BIG!!! -->Using return flow: In addition to
using powerheads to increase water flow within a tank, the return flow
from a pump in the sump should also be used in all but the smallest
tanks. This strong constant flow can be utilized in a number of ways.
For those of you who desire the current in your tank to surge from side
to side, like the surge on the reef, the flow from the pump needs to be
split at a 'T' fitting. After this 'T' fitting, electronic ball valves
can be inserted at either end of the 'T.' These electronic ball valves
can be programmed using a microprocessor timer so that the flow passing
through them will alternate from one valve to the next. The
microprocessor allows you to adjust the time between surge changes. To
achieve the surge effect, the outflows should be directed opposite each
other across the length of the tank. This method is for anyone with an
unlimited budget, as a single electronic ball valve costs over $200
each, and the microprocessor is another $50.
An alternative to having the pump direct its water
flow into the tank is to use a surge device that has come to be known as
the 'Carlson' surge device, after Bruce Carlson. In this system, a
large, tall reservoir is placed above the tank. Three quarters of the
way up this reservoir, a large diameter pipe runs into it and back down
to nearly the bottom. The pipe coming out of the reservoir bends down to
meet the tank's surface through the use of two 45-degree fittings. This
pipe extends a couple or so inches down below the surface of the tank.
Inside this outer tube, a small diameter piece of hard tubing runs to
the top of the tube and extends out of the bottom of the tube and up
into the air.
This system works by the use of gravity and the creation of a siphon.
Water from the tank is pumped into the reservoir slowly via a
powerhead. When the water reaches the top of the pipe inside the
reservoir, it will start to flow out and down the outside tube. As this
flow increases, a siphon will form and draw the water out of the tube
until the level reaches the bottom of the inside tube, at which time,
the siphon will be broken and the water flow out of the reservoir will
stop and the next cycle will begin. The flow out of this system will
depend on the size of the reservoir, the height of the reservoir above
the tank, and the diameter of the pipe extending into the reservoir. In
order to make certain that the siphon is broken, I also suggest putting a
small notch at the bottom of the pipe inside the reservoir.
Dump buckets: The last method for
adding surge and turbulence to a tank is to use a 'dump bucket.'
However, there are several reasons why I do not recommend using this
method. First, this system is mechanical, and almost everything that I
have utilized that is mechanical breaks down over time. However, a
bigger reason is that all of the dump buckets that I have seen to date,
by their very nature, produce a lot of air bubbles. These air bubbles
not only make viewing the tank difficult, but they also irritate the
corals. For soft corals in particular, this irritation leads to them not
extending their polyps, making them less visually appealing. Lastly,
dump buckets always produce salt spray, which is not only an annoyance,
but can also be dangerous if the salt is allowed to get near any
electrical outlets. Therefore, any alternative to a dump bucket should
be employed as a means for producing proper water movement.
Water Flow Diverter
A diverter
is another means of creating an aquarium water movement. It is
installed on the return of your main filtration and directs incoming
water to two alternating outputs, creating the beneficial aquarium water
movement.
Potential problem situations
More is not necessarily better
This article has addressed many the positive aspects of good water
movement. However, if you are like me, you may think that if a little is
good, more would be better. This is not necessarily true with water
movement. More likely, you will find that there is a window for the
intensity of water movement that is optimal for coral growth, and if you
go above this, some corals may be adversely affected. In one of my own
systems, when I first put two powerheads into my system, my corals
opened beautifully. When I added two more powerheads, my corals did not
open as much. Gradually, over time, they opened less and less. However, I
was too bull-headed having already spent the money on two additional
powerheads to accept the fact that the corals were doing better with
less current. This was only remedied when a friend suggested that I
reduce the current's strength so that my Leather corals would open. The
moral of this story is you can tell better than anyone when your corals
are doing well, and sometimes, this is the result of doing something
less, and not more. Over time, the corals will adapt to whatever water
movement is present. If it is too strong in a particular area, they will
grow around that spot. This is particularly true with stony corals.
And when you think that they are not getting what they need when you have your powerheads off or when it is a down period from the wavemakers I found this article that was very interesting to me.
Corals Eat By Stirring Up Turbulent Vortexes | IFLScience
Temperature increase
Most powerheads increase the temperature of the water by their method
of being water-cooled. As a result, if a tank's temperature is showing
an increase after the water movement is increased, the probable culprit
is the powerheads. In this case, it may be necessary to either reduce
the number of powerheads, or find more efficient models that do not heat
the water so much. Otherwise, it may be necessary to add a chiller to
the tank.
Salt spray
One last aspect of designing good water motion is to produce minimal
salt spray. If your motion causes lots of bubbling and surface
agitation, this will eventually lead to salt spray. This may not be
problematic initially, but over time, a fine coating of salt will reduce
the intensity of the lights and creep into everything around the tank.
If it gets into anything electrical this can cause real problems, so
keep this in mind once the system is up and running.
Electrical sources
If you plan to use a wavemaker in your reef aquarium, you will need a
sufficient number of electrical outlets near the tank to accommodate
multiple power cords. For safety purposes, use GFCI (ground-fault
circuit-interrupter) outlets that are designed for safe operation in wet
areas.
Conclusion
It is my belief that good water movement is essential for corals to
really prosper. When designing good water movement in your system, do
not make it too elaborate and always use reliable pumps and powerheads.
Iwaki probably makes the most reliable and efficient water pumps on the
market, so using them is a good place to start. My personal favorite is any of the mag's. I use a mag 18 for my 125 gallon reef. With a little planning,
and some of the new equipment on the market, it is now quite easy to get
water motion within your tank that mimics what occurs on the reef.