Berlin System Setup

Berlin Filtration System


The Berlin Filtration System used in many saltwater aquariums was invented in, of all places, Germany. The original Berlin System is still the preferred filtration system of many reef tank purists.  If you haven't already figured it out, terms in the hobby rarely have a solid concrete meaning, and a "Berlin Filtration System" is another one of those things. Basically, it is any method of filtration that utilizes a protein skimmer, liverock and should have a means for mechanical filtration as well. The system utilizes a sump, which is a tank separate from the display that contains all the equipment out of view.

Typically, the sump is located below the tank. Water from the display tank drains down through an overflow or other hole drilled into the tank, (although some people still use siphons for this - not reccomended), and is aimed to pour into filter socks, or is poured over a filter pad. Utilizing gravity in this way makes mechanical filtration simple, but some of the heavier particles will remain in the tank as they sink below the drains. Stirring up these particles in your display tank by blasting your rocks with a turkey baster will help the filter remove them in between water changes.

Biological Filter - The surface of the Live Rock serves as a platform for the nitrifying bacteria (nitrosoma and nitrobacter) which convert the ammonia produced in your tank into nitrites and then nitrates.

Natural Nitrate Reduction - The multitude of small "cells" in Live Rock create the perfect oxygen free place for anaerobic bacteria to grow. Anaerobic bacteria converts the nitrates in the tank water into nitrogen gas, which is eventually vented into the atmosphere.

Mechanical Filtration in your typical Berlin Filtration System - 

Filter socks are usually made from a polyester blend and allow water to pass through them, but remove any particles over a certain micron size. Usually "100 micron socks" are sold in the hobby, these socks in theory will catch all particles over 100 microns, but in reality the longer they are used the less effective they will be as rushing water opens them up, and particles are broken down to sizes that will pass through the sock. Because of this, they should be taken out and cleaned each week, and depending on use and the quality of the sock, replaced when needed. You should clean the filter socks before water begins rushing over the top of them, if this happens, the sock is completely clogged, and will greatly reduce its effectiveness. To clean a filter sock, turn it inside out and spray it with a hose from the "new inside" to dislodge the particles now exposed on the outside of the inverted sock. Move back and forth, from top to bottom, before rotating the sock, continue until it is almost 100% clean. You can turn it back to its normal shape and begin using it again after it is cleaned, the hose water is very unlikely to cause any problems to your aquarium, it is too small of an amount. There are other ways of cleaning the sock, like letting them sit out in a bucket of strongly chlorinated water overnight, but I think spraying is effective for the first couple of cleanings, and then they should be replaced anyway.

Filter Pads serve the same purpose as filter socks, and are also made of a polyester blend. Filter pads contain a network of material that catches particles as water passes through the mesh. For a filter pad to work effectively, it should be situated in a way to prevent water from going around the mesh.  Usually this can be solved by placing the filter pad parallel with the floor, and allowing water to fall over the pad and then down into the sump. As long as the pad is wide and clean enough to handle the water volume falling over it, gravity will cause the water to go through the pad. Vertically aligned solutions, like the filter pad setups in hang on the back filters, care has to be taken to make sure water cannot go around the pad. In time the pad will become clogged with waste, and water will begin covering a greater area before it fall into the sump. When this happens, it is time to clean your filter pad. I like to slide a garbage bag underneath the pad before taking it outside to clean, so that a minimum amount of waste falls into the tank as the mesh is squeezed/manipulated. Arranging your filter pad for easy access in the first place isn't a bad idea.
Both filter pads and micron socks do a good job of removing larger particles from your water, and protecting your pump from hard objects that may damage it. If you have a shortage of footprint area in your sump, micron socks are probably a better fit for you as they utilize both vertical and horzontal space as compared to filter pads that can only utilize one or the other. (Therefore you can pass more water through a finer particle trap than through a filter sock compared to a pad for the same footprint area; all other things equal).
Whether you use a filter pad or a filter sock for mechanical filtration, make sure to always turn off the return pump from the sump before cleaning them to prevent making a mess in your display tank should you make a mistake.

After water passes through the mechanical filtration area and is free of large particulates, it will usually enter the sump and be returned to the main tank, or sucked up by the protein skimmer. However, the aquarist can employ many other means of filtration in the sump.

Protein Skimmers, the Main component of the Berlin Filtration System - 

Protein skimming can get really complicated if you want to get into it, so we will stick to the basics. Protein skimmers remove organic compounds, (Dissolved Organic Compounds -"DOCs" to be more exact), that were too small to be trapped by mechanical filtration, but not have been fully broken down. They do this by utilizing a vortex chamber, that places the water in contact with air bubbles that separate hydrophobic particles from the water, such as lipids, fats and other "proteins". (You will here the term skimming "proteins" from the water often in the hobby, even though technically your skimming more than just that). The separated particles rise in the chamber as cleaner water exits back into the sump. Eventually this film of DOCs forms into what is called skimmate, which bubbles over into the collection cup at the top of the protein skimmer. The cup should be cleaned, (with the pump that powers the skimmer turned off), weekly when the filter pads are checked, or sooner if they become full. Since live rock is not the most efficient (surface area/lb or /cu.ft.) biological filter platform, skimming most of the proteins from the tank water helps the relatively small bacteria population to keep up with the tank's bioload.

After water is skimmed, in the traditional Berlin Filtration System it is returned to the display tank where bacteria on and in liverock consumes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate that are a result of decay of wastes missed by the filter or caused by the tank's bioload. However, most aquarists utilize additional filtration methods to get the most out of the sump area. Some of the more popular methods involve using water polishers, remote deep sand beds, bio-ball and/or bio-wheel areas, canister filters and refugiums (The larger the refugium the better in my opinion). The filtration methods supplement the Berlin filtration system, and help to provide an even more balanced environment for your marine inhabitants. With filtration, the more the merrier.

As with any filtration system, Berlin Filters have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Pros:

• Simple and inexpensive.
• Limited equipment requirement.
• Low maintenance.
• Uncluttered, "natural" look.
• Natural Nitrate Reduction

Cons:

• Limited tank occupant capacity.

The Berlin Filter is an efficient filtration method which has proven itself over the years. The filter is simple, inexpensive to install and will work well for most reef systems if the biological filter capacity is not exceeded.

Here are some ideas for a setup.

Berlin System Setup

Berlin Filtration System


The Berlin Filtration System used in many saltwater aquariums was invented in, of all places, Germany. The original Berlin System is still the preferred filtration system of many reef tank purists.  If you haven't already figured it out, terms in the hobby rarely have a solid concrete meaning, and a "Berlin Filtration System" is another one of those things. Basically, it is any method of filtration that utilizes a protein skimmer, liverock and should have a means for mechanical filtration as well. The system utilizes a sump, which is a tank separate from the display that contains all the equipment out of view.

Typically, the sump is located below the tank. Water from the display tank drains down through an overflow or other hole drilled into the tank, (although some people still use siphons for this - not reccomended), and is aimed to pour into filter socks, or is poured over a filter pad. Utilizing gravity in this way makes mechanical filtration simple, but some of the heavier particles will remain in the tank as they sink below the drains. Stirring up these particles in your display tank by blasting your rocks with a turkey baster will help the filter remove them in between water changes.

Biological Filter - The surface of the Live Rock serves as a platform for the nitrifying bacteria (nitrosoma and nitrobacter) which convert the ammonia produced in your tank into nitrites and then nitrates.

Natural Nitrate Reduction - The multitude of small "cells" in Live Rock create the perfect oxygen free place for anaerobic bacteria to grow. Anaerobic bacteria converts the nitrates in the tank water into nitrogen gas, which is eventually vented into the atmosphere.

Mechanical Filtration in your typical Berlin Filtration System - 

Filter socks are usually made from a polyester blend and allow water to pass through them, but remove any particles over a certain micron size. Usually "100 micron socks" are sold in the hobby, these socks in theory will catch all particles over 100 microns, but in reality the longer they are used the less effective they will be as rushing water opens them up, and particles are broken down to sizes that will pass through the sock. Because of this, they should be taken out and cleaned each week, and depending on use and the quality of the sock, replaced when needed. You should clean the filter socks before water begins rushing over the top of them, if this happens, the sock is completely clogged, and will greatly reduce its effectiveness. To clean a filter sock, turn it inside out and spray it with a hose from the "new inside" to dislodge the particles now exposed on the outside of the inverted sock. Move back and forth, from top to bottom, before rotating the sock, continue until it is almost 100% clean. You can turn it back to its normal shape and begin using it again after it is cleaned, the hose water is very unlikely to cause any problems to your aquarium, it is too small of an amount. There are other ways of cleaning the sock, like letting them sit out in a bucket of strongly chlorinated water overnight, but I think spraying is effective for the first couple of cleanings, and then they should be replaced anyway.

Filter Pads serve the same purpose as filter socks, and are also made of a polyester blend. Filter pads contain a network of material that catches particles as water passes through the mesh. For a filter pad to work effectively, it should be situated in a way to prevent water from going around the mesh.  Usually this can be solved by placing the filter pad parallel with the floor, and allowing water to fall over the pad and then down into the sump. As long as the pad is wide and clean enough to handle the water volume falling over it, gravity will cause the water to go through the pad. Vertically aligned solutions, like the filter pad setups in hang on the back filters, care has to be taken to make sure water cannot go around the pad. In time the pad will become clogged with waste, and water will begin covering a greater area before it fall into the sump. When this happens, it is time to clean your filter pad. I like to slide a garbage bag underneath the pad before taking it outside to clean, so that a minimum amount of waste falls into the tank as the mesh is squeezed/manipulated. Arranging your filter pad for easy access in the first place isn't a bad idea.
Both filter pads and micron socks do a good job of removing larger particles from your water, and protecting your pump from hard objects that may damage it. If you have a shortage of footprint area in your sump, micron socks are probably a better fit for you as they utilize both vertical and horzontal space as compared to filter pads that can only utilize one or the other. (Therefore you can pass more water through a finer particle trap than through a filter sock compared to a pad for the same footprint area; all other things equal).
Whether you use a filter pad or a filter sock for mechanical filtration, make sure to always turn off the return pump from the sump before cleaning them to prevent making a mess in your display tank should you make a mistake.

After water passes through the mechanical filtration area and is free of large particulates, it will usually enter the sump and be returned to the main tank, or sucked up by the protein skimmer. However, the aquarist can employ many other means of filtration in the sump.

Protein Skimmers, the Main component of the Berlin Filtration System - 

Protein skimming can get really complicated if you want to get into it, so we will stick to the basics. Protein skimmers remove organic compounds, (Dissolved Organic Compounds -"DOCs" to be more exact), that were too small to be trapped by mechanical filtration, but not have been fully broken down. They do this by utilizing a vortex chamber, that places the water in contact with air bubbles that separate hydrophobic particles from the water, such as lipids, fats and other "proteins". (You will here the term skimming "proteins" from the water often in the hobby, even though technically your skimming more than just that). The separated particles rise in the chamber as cleaner water exits back into the sump. Eventually this film of DOCs forms into what is called skimmate, which bubbles over into the collection cup at the top of the protein skimmer. The cup should be cleaned, (with the pump that powers the skimmer turned off), weekly when the filter pads are checked, or sooner if they become full. Since live rock is not the most efficient (surface area/lb or /cu.ft.) biological filter platform, skimming most of the proteins from the tank water helps the relatively small bacteria population to keep up with the tank's bioload.

After water is skimmed, in the traditional Berlin Filtration System it is returned to the display tank where bacteria on and in liverock consumes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate that are a result of decay of wastes missed by the filter or caused by the tank's bioload. However, most aquarists utilize additional filtration methods to get the most out of the sump area. Some of the more popular methods involve using water polishers, remote deep sand beds, bio-ball and/or bio-wheel areas, canister filters and refugiums (The larger the refugium the better in my opinion). The filtration methods supplement the Berlin filtration system, and help to provide an even more balanced environment for your marine inhabitants. With filtration, the more the merrier.

As with any filtration system, Berlin Filters have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Pros:

• Simple and inexpensive.
• Limited equipment requirement.
• Low maintenance.
• Uncluttered, "natural" look.
• Natural Nitrate Reduction

Cons:

• Limited tank occupant capacity.

The Berlin Filter is an efficient filtration method which has proven itself over the years. The filter is simple, inexpensive to install and will work well for most reef systems if the biological filter capacity is not exceeded.

Here are some ideas for a setup.

FISH OF THE WEEK ~ Matted Filefish~ (Known to eat Aiptaisia)

The Matted Filefish, often referred to as the Bristletail Filefish, is an attractive species that is well known for its ability to eliminate Aiptasia and Majano anemones. Matted Filefish also have the ability to camouflage themselves by shifting their mottled coloration, effectively blending into the rock rubble, seagrass, and shallow coral reefs throughout their Indo-West Pacific habitat. Matted Filefish are a gentle and peaceful species that generally prefers to investigate their aquarium while always on the lookout for snacks. Matted Filefish are quite popular in the hobby and are commonly available through online retailers; local vendors should be able to place a special order if they aren't in stock.

Matted Filefish require an aquarium of at least 30 gallons and require a sand to crushed-coral substrate in addition to plenty of live rock for grazing and shelter. Although they have proven to be a hardy species, they appreciate an established aquarium with stable water conditions as well as high quality, biological and mechanical filtration (including a protein skimmer). They will coexist peacefully with many other tank mates, but should not be housed with aggressive fish that may harass them or pick at the bristle-like spinules of maturing males. Although Matted Filefish will decimate and likely eradicate infestations of nuisance anemones, they have been known to nip at some coral polyps (e.g.; zoanthids and palythoas) and sessile invertebrates; they are also known to consume small crustaceans (including ornamental shrimp), bivalve mollusks, and polychaetes. They aren't considered to be reef friendly and would ideally be housed in a peaceful, community FOWLR system.

Matted Filefish are omnivores that mainly feed upon amphipods, bivalve mollusks, copepods, isopods, polychaetes, and various marine algae within their natural habitat. In an aquarium environment, they should be fed a variety of meaty food items such as live, frozen, freeze-dried, prepared, and vitamin enriched brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, krill, squid, crabmeat, clams, scallops, and marine algae. Feed multiple small meals (at least thrice) per day.

Matted Filefish are dimorphic egg-layers that have been reported to readily breed in an aquarium environment. A pair can generally be formed by simply introducing a male and female to an aquarium at the same time (the male can be identified by the presence bristle-like spinules); mature males will display retrorse spinules at roughly 2-3" and females will have developed eggs at 3". The Female will eventually lay around 300 adhesive eggs in a sheltered location on the substrate, which she will defend until they hatch a few day later. New fry can be fed a diet of Artemia nauplii and euryhaline rotifers for the first two weeks, after which they can be moved to mature Artemia Salina and juvenile-sized foods.


Click Here to Buy a Filefish for your Tank

Quick Facts :: Matted Filefish
Care Level:	Moderate
Temperament:	Peaceful
Maximum Size:	4"
Minimum Tank Size:	30 Gallons
Reef Compatible:	No - With Caution
Water Conditions:	72-80° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Diet:	Omnivore
Origin:	Indo-West Pacific
Family:	Monacanthidae
Species:	Filefish
Aquarium Type:	Fish Only

Bad Snails ~ Keep Good Husbandry Practices

Bad Snails 

 

Many folks ask which snails are good for their tank.  The answer is what kind of tank do they have?  is it Freshwater or Saltwater?  How many gallons is the fish tank?  Some folks will also find themselves with snails that are not reef safe.  This list consists of snails aquarists should steer clear from.  In some cases folks simply have snails that shouldn't be in a reef tank because they are colder water or temperate species, or because they get too large.

• Flamingo Tongue - A beautiful snail that feeds solely on gorgonians.

• Bumble Bee Snail - Sold as a sand stirrer, it eats the micro fauna in your sand that makes it "live".

• Murex Snails - All of the snails in this family are predatory, and will feed on herbivorous snails, leaving your tank with algae.

• Ilynassa Obsoleta - a big seller on Ebay, as their colonies blanket the coasts of temperate shores. They are a colder water snail that scavenges and eats other snails and bivalves. They are also cannibalistic and are known carriers of parasites that can infect both fish and humans. If you have them, do not release them locally.

• Margarita Snails - this very popular snail's range does not extend into the tropics, and they will be stressed in normal reef tanks, because they are not built to tolerate reef temperatures. A good snail though if your tank rarely goes to 70 degrees, otherwise you will be slowly torturing them to death. They are excellent algae cleaners in a temperate tank, and a favorite among many hobbyists with cold water biotopes.

• Crown Conchs - A predatory snail that will eat other herbivorous snails, leaving your tank with algae. They are also cannibalistic. The largest online vendor has confused these with Fighting Conchs, and they have begun to give the correct species a bad name. 

• Queen Conchs - these herbivorous snails are great at first, but when they become close to 12 inches long, 4 inches tall, and 5 inches wide, they are just too big for most tanks, as they need a large amount of area to survive. At that size they also bulldoze most rock formations.

• Keyhole Limpets - Not all limpets are the same. Owning a limpet is like owning a snail, the species really matters. Many of the keyhole limpets are known predators, some of which feast on SPS coral.If you keep coral, only keep species limpets who are herbivorous. Not all keyhole limpets are predatory, but you should be wary when adding them to a tank without prior knowledge of their diet. 

• Olive Snails - These snails have been popping up in the hobby, and it is a shame. They are predatory, and feed on small bivalves, microfauna and other snails.They also scavenge, but they are opportunistic.

• Babylonian Snails - This cream and brown spotted snail makes an attractive addition to the tank, but are predatory and feed on bivalves and other snails. They are often mislabeled and sold as "Fancy Nassarius", or "Speckled Nassarius" snails, but they are not related to Nassarius spp. and are not safe for the reef aquarium.

While this list is not all of the species to aoid, but it is a list that continually grows.  Remember, most snails are predatory, and are not good candidates for an aquarium. If you collect locally please use a field guide to determine the species you catch, and its compatibility to the reef aquarium.





"Originally posted in part at www.ReefCleaners.org"