Ideal Freshwater Aquarium Plants For Your Shrimp
For all aquarists, freshwater aquarium plants are an
essential part of your tank, and not just because they make it look
nice and give your shrimp and fish a good place to hide. Live aquarium
plants also do some very important work – they keep the tank clean,
oxygenate the water, and maintain the correct pH balance in the water.
You
need plants in your aquarium, but which live aquarium plants do you
choose? Some plants can be very difficult to care for, requiring the
right degree of light and special care to stay alive, while others can
be very easy to look after. Simply plant them in the tank and forget all
about them.
So let’s take a look at some of the most common freshwater aquarium plants and see what we need to do to care for them.
Java Moss
These are very popular freshwater aquarium plants, and are also a
firm favorite of shrimp lovers as they provide great places for them to
hide in. Java moss is best attached to ornaments in your tank, such as
driftwood or rocks. To do so, you’ll need to use rubber bands or
something similar to give the live aquarium plant a hand while they
slowly root themselves to the ornament.
Java moss plants like
slightly dimmed light. Indeed, they will absolutely flourish in lower
light, but beware if the light is too strong or the opposite effect will
happen. Bright light will stunt the growth of Java Moss and could see
it being plagued by green algae.
Java Fern
Similar to Java moss, the Java fern is another freshwater aquarium
plant that is popular with shrimp. These plants also prefer low light,
and they grow best of all when their rhizome (green stems which the
leaves grow from) are tied around the rock or ornament they are attached
too. If you have larger size Java Fern, then you can instead bury its
roots underneath the gravel, but you have to be careful when you do this
that the rhizomes are not buried.
Java fern are easy live
aquarium plants to grow, as they release spores from the tips of their
leaves when ready to propagate. These spores will simply float around
until they find something to attach themselves too, and then they will
grow very rapidly.
Anubias & Anubias Nana
These freshwater aquarium plants are probably the most common plants
for aquarists, because they are so easy to keep, cheap to buy and
extremely abundant. The most popular variety is the Dwarf Anubias, or
Anubias Nana, although the most interesting are amongst the number of
larger varieties.
Anubias are similar to Java fern – their habits
and method of planting themselves are very similar. One of the key
differences though, is that it’s possible to take cuttings from rhizome
of these live aquarium plants when they begin to propagate.
Extremely
popular, Anubias freshwater aquarium plants are almost invincible to
being eaten by the creatures in your tank, thanks to its large,
rubber-like leaves that even the most hostile of aquarium inhabitants
can’t stomach.
Cryptocorynes
Generally referred to as Crypts for short, these live aquarium plants
can vary wildly in shape, size and color. Crypts come in all different
kinds of varieties, from scruffy looking Wendtii, to the pink-shaded
Petchiis, yet no matter how they look, they are all very popular with
our shrimp.
These live aquarium plants are considered by
experienced aquarists to be the “next step up” from Anubias and Java
fern. They still prefer dimmed light, but they need a little more care
due to their complex roots – they need to be buried at a depth of 2
inches deep on the gravel, though you must take care to ensure that the
crown (where the leaves are), is kept well above the gravel.
You
need to be careful with Crypts as they are quite vulnerable freshwater
aquarium plants. They can experience what is known as the “Crypt Melt”
condition, which usually occurs when you first introduce them into your
aquarium. What happens is the sudden parameter change of the water often
shocks the Crypts, and the result is that they often lose all of their
leaves. Try not to worry though; this is very common and almost never
fatal for the plant.
Dwarf Lilies
These are very fragile plants, and very slow-growing. Although shrimp
seem to like them, they can easily be damaged so it may not be a good
idea to plant these if you have too many shrimp running around.
Dwarf
lilies look like small arrowheads, and their thin stems can break very
easily. If you do want dwarf lilies in your tank, you would be better
off buying older ones that have had time to grow. This way, they will be
less likely to break and you’ll also avoid buying any freshwater
aquarium plants that are sterile.
Vallisnera
Simply known as “Vals”, these are very tall, grass-like live aquarium
plants. It can be good for your shrimp if you have a whole bunch of
these, as it provides a great place for them to hide in. When fully
grown, Vals are often much likened to green onions, due to the bulb like
crown which develops at the head of these freshwater aquarium plants.
Note
that Vals can be quite difficult to look after, because they are so
tall. Their leaves are not easy to trim, simply because cutting their
long leaves will harm them, and so they cannot be recommended for
smaller aquariums, except for the smallest variety known as the
Corkscrew Val, which are very intriguing live aquarium plants.
Certainly, unless you have a very large tank, you should stay well away
from Jungle Val, which are known to grow in excess of 20 inches tall.
Water Wisteria
These live aquatic plants are known as “bunch plants” and are very
common with shrimp keeping aquarists because they root into the gravel
of your tank and make nice interesting places for our shrimp to explore.
Water Wisteria is especially well loved for the shape of their leaves,
which are most intriguing. Water Wisteria has very loose lighting
requirements and will thrive in almost any condition so long as they
have plenty of oxygen and they root well.
Water Wisteria is also
one of the easiest freshwater aquatic plants to propagate, as all that
you need to do is snip off a nice long stem and bury it in around 3 to 4
inches of gravel, and the plant will do the rest for you, quickly
taking root by itself.
The Basics of Keeping Fresh Water Invertebrates
It’s often thought that aquarium enthusiasts do not
have much to choose from when it comes to fresh water invertebrates,
but this really isn’t so. Even when compared to the richness of the
sea, there are still many possibilities for fresh water aquariums.
Generally, there are two types of invertebrates that aquarium
keepers can choose from, yet within these two choices we can find a
surprisingly large variety of creatures that are suitable for living in
an aquarium environment. The two choices on offer are mollusks and
crustaceans. On the whole, these animals are usually very undemanding,
hardy, and therefore pretty easy to keep.
Problems With Fresh Water Invertebrates
But this doesn’t mean there aren’t some difficulties involved with
fresh water invertebrates - they certainly require proper care if they
are going to lead healthy, fulfilling lives in your aquarium.
The first challenge with lots of types of invertebrates is that many
of them are not compatible with the kinds of tropical fish we like to
keep in our aquariums. Many fresh water invertebrates need a
combination of brackish water and cool temperatures, which is damaging
for many of our favorite fish. Another consideration is that lots of
types of invertebrates require some kind of land to walk around on.
Another challenge for fresh water invertebrates is their feeding
habits often present an issue for aquarists. Many types of invertebrates
need to eat living plants, others like to eat fish, and yet more exist
primarily as filter feeders – which are almost impossible to feed.
A third, more manageable problem is that some types of invertebrates
like to multiply at terrific rates, quickly becoming more pests than
pleasures to keep in our aquariums.
Pets or Pests?
Fresh water invertebrates can in fact make excellent pets to keep in our aquariums.
They are often fascinating to observe, yet we need to be very careful
about which ones we choose. The main point is to avoid impulse buying
of different types of invertebrates without doing your research first.
Many fresh water invertebrates totally unsuited to life in a fresh
water aquarium and will quickly die. Even those that are suitable for
aquarium life need a lot of care and attention.
So which invertebrates are suitable for your fresh water aquarium?
Let’s take a look at some of the most commonly kept invertebrates.
Types of Invertebrates Suitable for Aquarium Life
| Name |
Pros |
Cons |
| Algae Shrimp |
Peaceful creatures, consume algae, flake etc. |
Eaten by larger fish. |
| Apple Snails |
Beautiful, easy to find and fun to watch |
Can damage aquarium plants, short lifespan in aquariums. |
| Clams & Mussels |
Always an interesting addition! |
Require cool water and filter feeder food, are often nibbled by fish, like to burrow out of sight. |
| Crabs |
Fun novelty creatures to add to your aquarium, very active. |
Need brackish water, dry land, can be predatory. |
| Crayfish |
Attractive, brightly colored shades of red or blue. |
Can be predatory and territorial, will fight each other, nocturnal. |
| Fan Shrimp |
Large size makes them very interesting to observe. |
Territorial, sensitive to poor quality water, difficult to feed. |
| Long-arm Shrimp |
Hardy and large. |
Can potentially grow very big, highly territorial, predatory. |
| Pond Snails |
Inexpensive, easy to look after. |
Can damage aquarium plants, high reproductive rate. |
| Nerites |
Harmless to most plants, consume algae, don’t breed in aquariums |
Some require brackish water, can be difficult to identify. |
Fresh Water Invertebrate Health Considerations
Most types of invertebrates are quite low maintenance as far as
healthcare goes, so long as the quality and chemistry of your water are
kept in optimum condition. With the exception of the pond snail, most
types of invertebrates are vulnerable to poor quality water, or water
containing high levels of nitrates. While some fresh water
invertebrates are able to breathe air, for example apple snails and
crabs, most cannot do so, and could quickly succumb in tanks that have
poor water conditions.
One of the most important issues to be aware of if you want to keep
fresh water invertebrates is that of copper-based medication. These
types of medicines should be avoided at all costs, because most types
of invertebrates are extremely intolerant of these compounds. Most
aquarium medications use copper, and so you will need to check
carefully before you go treating your tank.
Another important consideration is that many fresh water
invertebrates like to molt. Molting is a complex process, and depends
on the animals receiving the right kind of diet and living in the right
conditions. Under the wrong conditions, many invertebrates will not be
able to molt, and will therefore die.
Dietary Needs
Fresh water invertebrates have special dietary needs that need to be
considered. Often overlooked, many aquarium kept creatures eventually
starve to death. What you need to remember is that most fresh water
invertebrates are essentially scavengers, while others may be filter
feeders.
Filter feeders are especially difficult, as they need the
appropriate amount of particulate matter to be provided for them on a
regular basis. Ideally, you should add a small amount of specialized
food for them each day. Algae-eaters meanwhile, will need to be
provided with an alternate source of food, because any algae you have
in your tank is never enough to sustain them long term.
Regarding snails and many types of crayfish fresh water
invertebrates, these creatures need to eat certain kinds of aquarium
plants, which will have to be provided for them. Note that many snails
will also happily eat your fish eggs, and so they are a definite no-go
for any breeding tank.
You also need to beware of certain types of invertebrates that can
eat your tropical fish, such as many crabs, long-arm shrimp and
crayfish, which are able to catch and eat surprisingly large fish.
Summary
To cap it all, fresh water invertebrates can make excellent
additions to your aquarium, but don’t go kidding yourself that they are
easy creatures to keep. Virtually all types of invertebrates require a
level of specialist care, and so you will need to research carefully
any kind of creature you are considering keeping, to see if it really
is a viable option for you.
Some of the easier fresh water invertebrates to keep are
red cherry shrimp!
Breeding Red Cherry Shrimp
Red Cherry Shrimp Breeding
Red Cherry Shrimp are one of the simplest animals to breed in the
aquarium. There are 3 main things to be concerned with when attempting
to breed Red Cherry Shrimp, inducing breeding, breeding / carrying of
eggs, and raising the young. If all 3 variables are taken care of Red
Cherry Shrimp will breed in an aquarium and their population will grow
rapidly.
Inducing Red Cherry Shrimp to breed only requires a sexed pair of
shrimp, stable water parameters, and a food source. Male Red Cherry
Shrimp are smaller and less colorful than the females. Females often
have a yellow "saddle" that is the eggs developing in her ovaries. When
Red Cherry Shrimp are juveniles it is nearly impossible to determine
their sex. Another sexual difference that is less obvious is females
have a rounder and longer tail section. This sexual difference can be
used to determine the sex of less colorful females, such as wild
colored.
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Bright red female Red Cherry Shrimp carrying eggs.
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Berried
Adult Female. Noticed the green eggs.
Egg color does not affect the color of the hatch.
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Water parameters should be kept extremely stable and with in
acceptable ranges. The pH of the aquarium water should be with in
6.5-8.0. The temperature should be kept between 70-80°F. Water hardness
is not important as long as it is not at either extreme, soft or hard.
When breeding, the shrimp need a consistent food source. If the
shrimp population of an aquarium is small to moderate, often times the
naturally occurring algae is an adequate food source. If supplemental
feeding becomes necessary blanched vegetables and prepared fish foods
are also good food sources.
Once a female and male are sexual mature (4-6 months old) and the
above-mentioned requirements are met, they will breed. Breeding occurs
right after a female molts. She will then hide and release pheromones
and the male will find her and breed with her. After breeding the female
will carry the fertilized eggs under her tail until they hatch.
Molting is the process of shedding the exoskeleton of a Shrimp (and
other invertebrates). This allows the shrimp to grow in size and re-grow
a new exoskeleton. During this period, the female shrimp is very
vulnerable and she will hide in what ever space she can find that makes
her feel safe.
While hiding, the female Shrimp will release pheromones (sexual
hormones) into the water notifying the male she is ready to breed. This
pheromone causes the male to search for the female and often times the
male will be observed swimming threw the water column while searching.
This behavior is in direct contrast to their normal lifestyle of living
on the substrate or plants / decorations.
A female and male Red Cherry Shrimp.
Top: Female
Bottom: Male
When the male finds the female they will breed. The male will deposit
his sperm in the female. Once the sperm is deposited the female will
pass her eggs threw the sperm on their way to the underside of her tail.
The eggs are constantly fanned by the female's pleopods (swimming legs)
to keep them oxygenated and clean. The fertilized eggs will remain
under the females tail until they hatch.
Once the eggs hatch, the juvenile young are tiny replicas of their
adult counterparts. They have no larval stages like most saltwater and
many freshwater shrimp have. The young shrimp will eat the same foods
that adults do. They will use their claws on their front legs to rip off
small edible chunks of the foods.
When raising young shrimp it is important that there are no predators
in the tank. Very few, if any, fish can resist taking a small shrimp as
a midday snack. If breeding shrimp are in a tank with predators the
only way to ensure young shrimp will grow is to provide plenty of hiding
spaces, but even this will not guarantee success.
Including live Java Moss, Christmas Moss, or any other extremely slow
growing aquatic plant in a shrimp tank will help increase the speed the
young will grow. These slow growing plants harbor micofauna and other
food sources for young shrimp. While not required for successful
breeding, these slow growing plants will lead to faster growing,
healthier shrimp.
As long as the 3 main variable in breeding shrimp are understood,
inducing breeding, breeding / carrying of eggs, and raising the young,
breeding Red Cherry Shrimp can be very easy and rewarding.
Dwarf Shrimp Anatomy
| Quick Reference |
| Name |
Common Names |
Use |
| Abdomen |
Tail section |
Swimming, holding eggs |
| Carapace |
Head section |
Protecting vital organs |
| Maxillipeds |
Claws |
Modified legs used for feeding |
| Pleopods |
Swimmerettes |
Swimming, holding and fanning eggs |
| Rostrum |
Nose |
Defense (mostly useless for dwarf shrimp) |
| Uropod |
Tail |
Swimming |
| Walking Legs |
Legs |
Walking |
| More Detail |
| Name |
Details |
| Abdomen |
This section of the dwarf shrimp is the most muscular section of the shrimp. In many shrimp it is nearly see through. |
| Carapace |
The carapace is the
strongest section of a dwarf shrimp. The shell on this section is
thicker to protect all the shrimp vital organs. All legs,
maxillipeds, the rostrum and eyes are attached to the carapace. |
| Maxillipeds |
The maxillipeds are the
modified legs that have small claws on the end of them used for
eating. In long arm shrimp, one pair of these extends and becomes
quite large. |
| Pleopods |
Pleopods are the small
swimming legs found on the underside of the Abdomen. These legs are
used for swimming through the water column. They are also used by
female shrimp to carry and clean eggs until they hatch. |
| Rostrum |
The rostrum is the pointed
“nose” on the front of the dwarf shrimp. In some shrimp it is used
for defense, but in dwarf shrimp it is nearly useless for this. The
Rostrum is one of the most important identifying attributes for many
dwarf shrimp. |
| Uropod |
The uropod is the tail
section of a dwarf shrimp. This tail allows the shrimp to have a
rapid backwards acceleration when flicked using the muscular abdomen. |
| Walking Legs |
Walking legs are exactly what they sound like. They are the legs a dwarf shrimp uses to walk. |
How many shrimp can I put in my aquarium?
You can
have up to 10 dwarf shrimp per 1 gallon of water. For example: A 10
gallon aquarium COULD house up to 100 dwarf shrimp. However, a great
starting point could be 5 shrimp per 1 gallon of water.
What is a dwarf shrimp?
A dwarf shrimp is (for
the purposes of this blog) a freshwater aquarium shrimp. They are
mostly Caridina or Neocaridina spp.
How big of a tank do dwarf shrimp need?
Most
dwarf shrimp do not require much space. A 5 gallon aquarium is about
all that is needed as long as the tank has adequate filtration and
water changes are performed once per week.
What type of filter should I use?
A
sponge filter
is the best filter for a shrimp only aquarium. Another good option
is a corner box filter. Most power filters will suck smaller shrimp
into the filter and kill them, so they are not recommended.
How long will dwarf shrimp live?
Most
dwarf shrimp live between 1.5 and 3 years. There are some very long
lived shrimp, such as the ope ula (Hawaiian Red Shrimp). This shrimp
can live beyond 20 years in captivity.
How big will dwarf shrimp get?
Most
dwarf shrimp stay between 1.5 and 2.5 inches. There are a few
species that get larger and a few smaller species as well. Many
Macrobrachium species can get very large and are not suited to
aquarium life.
How can I get my shrimp to breed?
As
long as there are both a male and a female in an aquarium with
suitable water parameters most dwarf shrimp will breed naturally. The
female will carry the eggs under her tail until they hatch. Many
species will hatch as smaller versions of their adult parents and some
will go thru many larval stages that require sea water to survive.
How can I tell a male from a female?
Most
dwarf shrimp species are fairly easy to tell the difference. The
female is usually the larger and more colorful. In species where the
male is just as colorful, you can tell by the female being a little
larger when full grown, and also having a broader and rounder tail.
How do I raise the young?
If
the young shrimp is a miniature version of the adult they require no
special attention. They will eat the same foods as the adults and
have the same water requirements. If the young have larval stages
(like Amano Shrimp) the rearing of the young is much more difficult.
Do dwarf shrimp eat their young?
Most species of dwarf shrimp will not eat their young.
What do dwarf shrimp eat?
Most
dwarf shrimp are omnivores. They will eat just about anything in an
aquarium that is edible. Many of the shrimp will eat the algae that
naturally occurs in aquariums. Sinking pellets and blanched (boiled
until soft) vegetables make good foods for dwarf shrimp, as well.
Can I keep fish with my dwarf shrimp?
Many
fish will make a quick meal of dwarf shrimp. If the shrimp can fit
in the mouth of the fish, odds are the fish will eat the shrimp.
There are a few peaceful small mouthed fish that work well with shrimp
such as neon and cardinal tetras, Endlers Livebearers, and smaller
rasboras. If you are planning on breeding dwarf shrimp and raising
the young it is not suggested to have any fish in the aquarium with
the shrimp.
Will different shrimp species breed with each other?
Yes,
most Neocaridina species will breed with other Neocaridina species
and many Caridina species will breed with other Caridina species.
Neocaridina species will not breed with Caridina species. It is not
recommended to keep any species that may interbreed with each other.
Red Cherry Shrimp Care
Keeping Red Cherry Shrimp is fairly easy for a dedicated aquarium
hobbyist. Red Cherry Shrimp can be kept as long as the aquarium they are
in has stable parameters, avoids harmful elements, feed them high
quality food, and only contains acceptable tank mates.
Stable water parameters are very important when keeping Red Cherry
Shrimp. They have a wide range of acceptable parameters such as a pH
range of 6.0-7.6 and an acceptable temperature range of 65-80°F. It is
far more important that the pH, temperature, and water hardness stay
stable than to pinpoint a specific number. As long as they parameters
are stable with in the acceptable range Cherry Red Shrimp will flourish
in the aquarium.
Red Cherry Shrimp Feeding
Red Cherry Shrimp are considered omnivores. That means they will eat
both plant matter as well as meaty foods. When keeping Red Cherry Shrimp
in the aquarium the three most common foods are algae, blanched
vegetable, and prepared aquarium foods. Supplemental feeding is often
not necessary, but when it is be sure not to over feed the aquarium as
this leads to poor water quality.
Algae is a natural food source for Red Cherry Shrimp. They will eat
many types of algae found in the aquarium, and often times, the algae
found naturally in aquariums is enough food to support a moderate Cherry
Red Shrimp population. Unfortunately they will not eat string / hair
algae so they are not a good control measure for those types of algae.
Blanched vegetables make an excellent food for Red Cherry Shrimp.
Vegetables such as Zucchini, Lettuce, Spinach, and Carrots are commonly
used. When preparing these vegetables, place them in boiling water until
they are soft, 2-3 minutes for leafy vegetables and longer for carrots
and zucchini. Small amounts of each should be fed at a time and make
sure never to leave rotting food in the aquarium.
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Juvenile Cherry Red Shrimp eating
a blanched zucchini slice
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A bright red female eating an algae waffer.
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Foods that are prepared for aquarium animals are often a great
supplement to algae for Red Cherry Shrimp. There are a few foods that
are manufactured specifically for invertebrates, such as Hikari Crab
Cuisine, and these foods are readily accepted. Any sinking pellet type
food works well as a food source. Also, any common flake fish food that
falls to the bottom will be eaten and for this reason, many aquarist use
Red Cherry Shrimp as a clean up crew. Be sure to read the ingredients
label carefully, any food containing copper should not be used. (Copper
Sulfate is a common ingredient in fish foods)
While modest populations of Red Cherry Shrimp will often not need
supplemental feedings, there are many options when it becomes necessary.
Cherry Red Shrimp do not require a lot of food, and heavy feeding tends
to degrade water quality.
Compliments of The Shrimp Farm
