Bad Snails ~ Keep Good Husbandry Practices

Bad Snails 

 

Many folks ask which snails are good for their tank.  The answer is what kind of tank do they have?  is it Freshwater or Saltwater?  How many gallons is the fish tank?  Some folks will also find themselves with snails that are not reef safe.  This list consists of snails aquarists should steer clear from.  In some cases folks simply have snails that shouldn't be in a reef tank because they are colder water or temperate species, or because they get too large.

• Flamingo Tongue - A beautiful snail that feeds solely on gorgonians.

• Bumble Bee Snail - Sold as a sand stirrer, it eats the micro fauna in your sand that makes it "live".

• Murex Snails - All of the snails in this family are predatory, and will feed on herbivorous snails, leaving your tank with algae.

• Ilynassa Obsoleta - a big seller on Ebay, as their colonies blanket the coasts of temperate shores. They are a colder water snail that scavenges and eats other snails and bivalves. They are also cannibalistic and are known carriers of parasites that can infect both fish and humans. If you have them, do not release them locally.

• Margarita Snails - this very popular snail's range does not extend into the tropics, and they will be stressed in normal reef tanks, because they are not built to tolerate reef temperatures. A good snail though if your tank rarely goes to 70 degrees, otherwise you will be slowly torturing them to death. They are excellent algae cleaners in a temperate tank, and a favorite among many hobbyists with cold water biotopes.

• Crown Conchs - A predatory snail that will eat other herbivorous snails, leaving your tank with algae. They are also cannibalistic. The largest online vendor has confused these with Fighting Conchs, and they have begun to give the correct species a bad name. 

• Queen Conchs - these herbivorous snails are great at first, but when they become close to 12 inches long, 4 inches tall, and 5 inches wide, they are just too big for most tanks, as they need a large amount of area to survive. At that size they also bulldoze most rock formations.

• Keyhole Limpets - Not all limpets are the same. Owning a limpet is like owning a snail, the species really matters. Many of the keyhole limpets are known predators, some of which feast on SPS coral.If you keep coral, only keep species limpets who are herbivorous. Not all keyhole limpets are predatory, but you should be wary when adding them to a tank without prior knowledge of their diet. 

• Olive Snails - These snails have been popping up in the hobby, and it is a shame. They are predatory, and feed on small bivalves, microfauna and other snails.They also scavenge, but they are opportunistic.

• Babylonian Snails - This cream and brown spotted snail makes an attractive addition to the tank, but are predatory and feed on bivalves and other snails. They are often mislabeled and sold as "Fancy Nassarius", or "Speckled Nassarius" snails, but they are not related to Nassarius spp. and are not safe for the reef aquarium.

While this list is not all of the species to aoid, but it is a list that continually grows.  Remember, most snails are predatory, and are not good candidates for an aquarium. If you collect locally please use a field guide to determine the species you catch, and its compatibility to the reef aquarium.





"Originally posted in part at www.ReefCleaners.org"

ANEMONE OF THE WEEK - Curly-Cue Anemone (Bartholomea annulata)

Click here to Buy your own Curlique Anemone!

The Curly-Cue Anemone is also commonly known as the Trumpet Anemone or Rock Anemone. They are found in the Mediterranean and Eastern Atlantic Ocean, in calm shallow areas where they generally live solitary lives. The body is opaque amber with yellowish-white spots, while the tentacles vary from brown to brown/violet as they extend away from the body, and are translucent with spots. The Curly-Cue Anemone has long flowing tentacles, which are usually wrapped with light corkscrew markings. They Curly-Cue Anemone is a good addition for reef tanks where they can find a calm area along the live rock to situate themselves. They will usually stay in one place for long periods of time and do not do much moving. When disturbed the Curly-Cue will rapidly retract its tentacles becoming a very small ball. Be sure to have enough available space for the Curly-Cue Anemone to find a suitable spot that is not too close to any other coral or invertebrate inhabitants. The Curly-Cue Anemone prefers to live singularly in calm shallow water. In the aquarium environment they should be provided with protected areas of the floor where they can live partially hidden in the live rock or aquascaping. They prefer protected crevices or overhangs without direct waterflow. Also be sure that the Curly-Cue Anemone will be able to find a suitable location that is also away from other Anemones or Corals as they will need space between themselves and other species. The Curly-Cue Anemone is a carnivore and will eat most meaty foods including: fish, mussels, crustaceans and shrimp. They should be given high quality frozen meaty preparations or fresh marine shrimp, chopped fish or mussel. The Curly-Cue Anemone will also require supplements to do well in the aquarium environment, including Iodine and trace elements.ods such as frozen brine or mysis shrimp, mussels or pieces of fish. This species will also eat any foods that get by the fish in the aquarium, making them good for keeping the aquarium free of excess and decaying food stuffs.				Quick Facts :: Curly-Cue Anemone
Care Level:	Moderate
Temperament:	Aggressive
Maximum Size:	10"
Diet:	Carnivore
Aquarium Level:	All
Minimum Tank Size:	55 Gallons
Reef Compatible:	Yes
Water Conditions:	72-78� F, dKH 8-12, sg 1.020-1.025, pH 8.1-8.4
Supplements:	Iodine, Trace elements
Coloration:	Brown, Tan, Yellow, Orange
Origin:	Easteran Atlantic, Mediterranean
Family:	Aiptasiidae
Species:	Anemones

Click here to Buy your own Curlique Anemone!

Feeding Your Seahorses

Seahorse Foods and Feeding A brief overview of what and how to feed your seahorses. SEAHORSE.ORG
Seahorses are ambush predators, feeding primarily on crustaceans, mostly shrimp. In their wild state, most seahorses only eat live food. (Although H. capensis is an exception and known to feed on dead food in the wild). In our aquariums, Wild Caught specimens often don't recognize many food items offer that are not from their natural environment. This includes dead food, which they just don't see as food unless trained to make the switch. Captive reared seahorse, on the other hand, are almost always willing to accept frozen. It seems as though being in captivity makes them more willing to try new foods. Even those captive reared seahorses not previously fed frozen make the switch almost immediately in most cases. It is ideal to offer seahorses a variety of foods - in the wild, they would not eat only one food source, so in captivity they shouldn't be expected to. Varying their diet allows for a more complete nutritional profile, as well as providing mental stimulation which they often lack by only feeding one food type. When feeding, whether live or frozen foods, its best to offer food that originated from a marine environment. Marine animals are rich in Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acids (HUFAs) that freshwater organisms lack or have in the wrong concentrations. The HUFAs are produced by phytoplankton, base of the marine food chain so all marine organisms are dependant on them in some way. Freshwater animals fed can be fed to marine animals, but they need to be enriched with different products containing the necessary fatty acids, such as Selco, or Ocean Rider Vibrance. The exception to this rule is Brine shrimp, while they are technical marine, coming from a saline environment, their ecosystem is much different than the ocean, and therefore do not have the HUFA's of other marine animals. Live Food Some believe that live foods are the best foods available for seahorses. It was only a few years ago that the only foods ever offered to seahorses was live food. The availability of captive bred seahorses and new techniques for training seahorses has changed that, although much live food is still offered as occasional treats or for Wild seahorses that can't be trained on frozen food. While there are many types available to the hobbyist, it can be difficult to obtain from local fish stores. Culturing live food in quantities large enough to feed seahorses provide a significant challenge to seahorse keepers. Most cultures require large amount of space and are labor intensive. Others breed to slow if at all. For most hobbyists, live food has to be purchased over the internet, or if they're lucky enough to have this option, collected from local waters. *IMPORTANT NOTE* Some wild caught seahorses refuse to be trained on to frozen foods. Others learn, but stop for no apparent reason. Anyone attempting to keep wild caught seahorses should plan to dedicate themselves to continuously providing live food should such circumstances arise. There are cases were no amount of diligence or experience will result in wild seahorses eating frozen foods. For that reason, if you are not prepared to offer live foods for the natural life span of your seahorse, which could be up to 7 years, I strongly suggest you do not consider keeping wild caught seahorses. Brine shrimp, Artemia Sp. The most common food offered to seahorses and also probably the worst. Many fish stores recommend feeding this because as a live food, a lot of seahorses will react to it and eat it. However, there is virtually no nutritional value to them, and because seahorses have a short digestive tract, they can not even make use of the little bit nutrients there. Seahorses fed only this will slowly die of starvation, sometimes over a period of months. There is some value to enriching them, although not enough to be a staple of the diet. They are often refused as well because they do not behave like "normal" shrimp which are part of a seahorse's natural diet. Their swimming habits often confuse seahorses, leaving them often to entirely ignore the brine shrimp. Baby Brine Shrimp, Artemia sp. Unlike Adult Brine shrimp there is SOME nutritional value to newly hatched baby brine shrimp. They have a nutritious yolk reserve to allow them to hatch out and survive the first twelve hours until they develop a complete mouth and anus. It is when they first hatch that they are still at their most nutritious and should be fed. Decapsulating the cyst before hatching (removing the shells) is recommended so it takes less energy for the brine nauplii to hatch, and are therefore more nutritious because they've used less of their food store. Brine shrimp can also be enriched for 24 hours before feeding. Baby brine shrimp is the normal staple for dwarf seahorses, and is often used to feed seahorse fry. Day old brine shrimp next to a penny. Rotifers Saltwater rotifers are microscopic organisms feed to seahorse fry that are too small to take brine shrimp at birth, and for supplementing the diet of adult dwarf seahorse. They are easy to culture using phytoplankton, yeast, special rotifer food, and even v8! There are a few different species and strains available in aquaculture, and choosing larger ones is usually better for seahorse fry. Three rotifers next to a penny for size comparison. That is the 'T' from "IN GOD WE TRUST". Copepods Tiny crustaceans, most roughly the size of new born brine shrimp. They are the best food for seahorse fry and dwarfs, but are not easy to culture and depending on their swimming habits, may not be noticed by some fry. There are three kinds of copepods generally used for feeding seahorses, harpactacoid, cyclopoid and calanoid. Harpactacoid are the easiest to culture, but they prefer living on the surface of objects, and thus do not always attract the attention of seahorses.They can be gathered from aquariums at night when they are most commonly found on the sides of the aquarium. Culturing just requires a container with an airline set on low, and crushed flake food. Calanoids swim in the water column which makes them ideal for seahorse fry and dwarves. However they are not easily cultured. Most used for seahorse food are caught directly from the ocean. Cyclopoids (cyclops) are found in refugiums occasionally and fed out. They are predatory, so culturing is probably not an option. Red Shrimp, Opa'e ula, Halocaridina rubra Small brackish water shrimp endemic to Hawaii. They are an excellent seahorse food and very few seahorses will refuse them. They are, however, not easy to obtain and must be purchased through mail order sources. They also have a slow reproduction rate, producing a few young only a couple times a year, making culturing at home impractical. Mysis relicta photo courtesy of PE Mysis Mysis shrimp, Opossum shrimp, Mysis sp., Mysidopsis sp. and similar Another great seahorse food, readily accepted. Mysis "shrimp" aren't actually shrimp, but a very shrimp like crustacean. They probably make up a large portion of the diet of wild seahorses. They reproduce at an alarming rate, producing young every 1 - 2 weeks, and are sexually mature at around 15 days.The young are born alive, and new born mysis make excellent food for juvenile seahorses that are starting to outgrow bbs. They however require a lot of time and energy culturing as the young need to be separated from the adults to prevent cannibalism. They also require feedings of newly hatched artemia nauplii or similar twice a day. Mysis can also sometimes be found it reef tanks among live rock and in refugiums. Sometimes you can convince your LFS to collect them from their live rock tanks, especially if you're in a panic and ask REALLY nicely. Most LFS's will do it, afraid of upsetting the crazy seahorse lady again. Ghost shrimp, Grass shrimp, Glass Shrimp, River shrimp These are clear shrimp commonly found along the shore lines and in rivers and streams. They make good seahorse food for large species such as H. erectus or H. reidi. The freshwater variety is often available through local sources, such as fish stores and bait shops. Culturing is time consuming, and either requires a large outdoor container such as a kiddy pool or separation of the young. Freshwater ghost shrimp should be enriched. Amphipods, Gammarus, Scuds Often described as "little bugs", these segmented crustaceans are usually present in our tanks, even under aggressive predation. Most seahorses will poke around rocks for a quick snack when these guys come out. If they can't live in the tank, they will often live in the filter pads. For the occasional treat, you can easily create a in the tank refugium which will allow them to hide and breed. Make a small box out of plastic screen or egg crate, and fill with algae, lightly packed filter floss, or shredded plastic. They can also be harvested from most bodies of water, fresh and marine. They prefer to hide under and around algae covered rocks. Isopods Similar to amphipods, these relatives of the common pill bug also make good seahorse food. Just watch out for parasitic Isopods (they will usually have very large eyes). I have found that tanks with isopods rarely have amphipods and tanks with amphipods rarely have isopods. I do not know if they out compete each other or if this is just an anomaly I observed in my tanks. Cleaner Shrimp Larvae Peppermint, skunk cleaners, and Fire shrimp (less so) all produce small larval shrimp at regular intervals when at least two are kept together. Because they are hermaphrodites, there is no need to sex them, just put a pair in the tank. Most adult seahorses will ignore the larval shrimp, but juvenile and dwarf seahorses love them. They are usually born at night, but are positively phototrophic so can be collected by setting up a light in/near a container to trap them. Raising them is difficult, but having enough broodstock around can leave you with an endless supply of shrimp larvae. Daphnia A freshwater relative of copepods, sometimes offered to juvenile seahorses and there are reports of some finicky adult seahorses taking them. Usually these are narrow snouted species such as H. comes or H. barbouri. Livebearer Fry Mollys, guppys, etc . . . Some seahorses will eat livebearer fry, while others ignore them completely. They are easy to have around though, so many keepers have them "just in case" Larval Food Shrimp These are the young of food shrimp that people eat. They can be obtained in a variety of sizes depending on their stage of development. Because of their use for human consumption, they're also pathogen free. Most food shrimp dealers will not accommodate small orders that seahorse keepers would be looking to make. Noni (George) however, has been a god send, more than willing to help seahorses. Frozen Foods Most captive bred seahorses readily accept the appropriate frozen foods. Some wild caught seahorses can be trained as well to eat frozen. Below are some of the frozen foods that can be fed to seahorses. Mysis Shrimp The staple of captive bred seahorses. As most brands are freshwater mysis, they will need to be enriched occasionally. Brands: SFB, Hikari, PE M.Y.S.Y.S, Gamma, Lifeline, MBF, Mike Reed, Henkel Plankton Usually Krill harvested at a small size. Roughly the same size as mysis shrimp, but may have a harder shell as seahorses seem to struggle with them a little more Brands: Hikari, SFB, Fish King Krill Good for large seahorse, such as adult H. erectus, H. reidi, and H. ingens. Brands: SFB seems to be the only suitably sized krill commercially available. Ghost Shrimp, Grass Shrimp, River Shrimp, Prawns Another freshwater animal that would need to be enriched if it was part of the seahorses diet. Good for large species of seahorses. Brands: Fish King (Grass Shrimp), ProSalt (Prawns), Mike Reed Copepods A copepod species. Sometimes accepted by seahorse fry. Brands: Cyclop-eeze by Argent Labs, MBF Daphnia I have no experience with feeding frozen daphnia, but I would assume its a good transitional food for fry if they accept it. As its a freshwater food, it would need to be enriched. Brands: Hikari, MBF, Mike Reed, gamma Gammarus I have never had the chance to offer frozen gammarus, but I suspect they would be taken willingly. Enrich if the source is freshwater gammarus. Brands: Fish King, MBF, Henkel Enriched Brine Shrimp While its not a particularly good food source, some seahorses are too small to eat anything other than brine shrimp. A few companies like Hikari and San Francisco Bay put out enriched brine shrimp. I would recommend ONLY feeding frozen brine as a last resort, and only the enriched kind. Brands: SFB, Hikari Some especially greedy seahorses are known to take pretty much any frozen food they can eat, so don't rule out trying foods such as squid or silversides. Be sure to cut the foods in to strips which are more the seahorse's size. Enriching Enriching foods is done to complete the nutritional foods offer to seahorses. In many cases, the foods offered, while good, lack certain components or do not have the right proportions of the correct components. For example, PE mysis is a great food source. However, the HUFA EPA (Eicosapentaenoic acid ) to DHA (Dososahexaenoic acid) ratio is too high. Too much EPA interferes with the bodies use of other necessary fatty acids, while high DHA to EPA increases the growth rate in fish. And many freshwater food sources do not contain any fatty acids, which is why enriching is so important. The number of enriching products ranges in the thousands, and are specific to what your intended results are; such as general HUFA increase, DHA increase, enriching for color enhancement, additional protein, etc . . . as well as the existing profile of the food you are trying to enrich. Discussing the specific products and uses is beyond the scope of this article. However, some commonly use enrichment products are: SELCO - increasing HUFAs Spirulina - Protein, Vitamins, low in HUFAS Naturose - astaxanthin powder for color enhancement. Phytoplankton and Phytoplankton pastes - Increasing HUFA, pigmentation Vibrance - Astaxanthin and HUFAs? SpectraVital - Rumored to be the same as Vibrance I encourage each person to tailor their enrichment needs on the foods that they offer. Researching enrichment products used in commercial aquaculture is likely to give all the answers to what product is best for you. How to Enrich: There are several ways one can enrich foods. I'm only covering the ways that work best for me, but don't be surprised to find many people suggesting many different ways. Small Frozen Food. Take a chunk of mysis and place in a plastic dixie cup. Add enrichment product. Once thawed, mix up the enrichment product with the mysis and add more if necessary. Leave overnight. The next day, rinse lightly in a regular net. If you use a net with holes too small, the excess of some non-liquid products don't rinse away properly. Feed to your seahorses. Large Frozen Foods. WARNING, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! SHARP POINTING THINGS AHEAD! I prefer this way of feeding because then I know the products are getting in the food. I use it primarily for frozen ghost shrimp. Get a small gauge need from a vet or farm supply store. Liquefy any dry enrichment product by adding RO water and mixing in a blender. Inject the enrichment product into the food. If its a shrimp, I will usually insert the needle parallel to the body as far as I can, then inject while I am removing the needle, in hopes of producing a pocket where the enrichment goes, kind of like a twinkie. Bio-Encapsulation AKA Gut Loading Here is where you feed the intended food the enrichment product your trying to get to the seahorse. Most only take 15 minutes to an hour to feed. For larger shrimp such as ghost shrimp, liquid products won't work as well; feed powders and pellets. Brine shrimp can be offered liquids and powders if the powders stay in suspension. Adult brine shrimp only take a short while to enrich, but baby brine shrimp require an additional 12 - 24 hours from the time they hatch to be enriched. When enriching newly hatched brine shrimp, never use the hatch water; always switch to freshly made water. Brine Shrimp being gut loaded with selco and algae paste.