1. MYTH: It takes 6 weeks to cycle (establish the biological filter) a new saltwater aquarium.
FACT:
The original method used for cycling a tank consisted of putting a fish or two in a new tank, then waiting up to 6 weeks for the nitrobacter and nitrosoma bacteria to form and grow. It is now known that there are a number of methods which can cycle a tank in as little as one day.
- Cycling with Live Rock
- Cycling with Live Sand
- Cycling with Bacterial Additives
A number of products are on the market which assist the cycling process in a tank. Some contain a quantity of the nitrosoma and nitrobacter bacteria which will help cycle your tank faster (some as fast as 1 day) than normal. Others contain enzymes which help naturally occurring bacteria grow more rapidly. Some products are added only at set up, others need to be replenished periodically.
1. BioZyme
Saltwater Biozyme is a combination of living bacteria in concentrated form, which is activated upon introduction to water for the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then to less harmful nitrate. It has unlimited shelf life as opposed to many liquid enzymes on the market. Recommended to use when starting a new tank or doing water changes.
2. Hagen Cycle
A concentrated bacteria that when added to the aquarium or filter chamber will initiate or strengthen the biological removal of ammonia and nitrate by beneficial bacterial strains. One teaspoon per 10 gallons weekly.
3. Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II
Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II by Ecological Labs contains select strains of nitrosomonas, nitrobacter, and nitrospira eliminate ammonia and nitrite. This specialized bacterial additive rapidly breaks down nitrogen compounds. Nite-Out II establishes and maintains the necessary bacterial populations required to efficiently process toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate.
4. Right Now! Bacteria
Right Now! Bacteria, made by Hiatt Distributors Ltd, is a state of the art special blend of several naturally occurring bacteria which will cycle a tank in one day when the defined protocol is followed. One dose of these rapidly reproducing bacteria is all that is needed. Right Now! also removes nitrates when used in conjunction with a high grade carbon.
5. Brightwell Aquatic’s MicroBacter7
Complex system of non-pathogenic aerobic and anaerobic microbes, as well as natural enzymes, specifically formulated to establish biological filtration in new aquarium set-ups, and to enhance the rate of nitrification, denitrification, and organic waste degradation in marine and freshwater aquaria through complete nutrient remineralization.
6. SeaChem’s Stability
Stability® will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium bio-filter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome". Stability® is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facilitative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Unlike competing products, the bacteria employed by Stability® are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability® is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of over use. Stability® is the culmination of nearly a decade of research and development and represents the current state of the art in natural biological management.
2. MYTH: Water changes are the only way to reduce nitrates which are the end product of the nitrification process in a saltwater aquarium.
FACT:
There are a number of methods which can be used to reduce or even prevent nitrate build up without performing a water change.
- Denitrator Units
- Mangroves
- Some types of Algae
- Live Rock in conjunction with a Berlin Filtration System
- Live Sand in conjunction with a Jaubert/Plenum System
- Nitrate Absorbing Products
Although not normally a major problem for most fish, excess nitrate (NO3) in a reef aquarium can be very detrimental the health of corals and many other invertebrates. Aside from using a denitrator unit, a number of methods (i.e. the Vodka Method) and materials can be utilized to absorb or convert nitrate to a harmless substance. Here are some nitrate absorbing products which will help resolve high nitrate problems in saltwater aquarium and reef tank systems.
1. De-Nitrate
Manufactured by SeaChem, De-Nitrate removes nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. This product comes in loose form and must be contained in a mesh bag or in a filter chamber and placed in the water stream.
2. FilStar Nitra-Zorb
A blend of natural and synthetic ion-exchange resins that selectively remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. In new aquariums, Nitra-Zorb controls the level of toxic ammonia and nitrite during initial development of the biological filter. In established aquariums, it helps control sudden surges in ammonia and nitrite caused by the addition of new fish, or anytime ammonia or nitrite is detected.
3. Instant Ocean Natural Nitrate Reducer
Instant Ocean Natural Nitrate Reducer is the easy solution for long-term reduction and control of aquarium nitrate levels. Patented formula promotes the natural denitrification process of converting nitrate into nitrogen gas.
4. Mangroves
Mangroves are an efficient method of removing nitrates, phosphates and other toxins from a saltwater (or freshwater) aquarium system. Once the plants are acclimated and installed in an aquarium system, they require little maintenance and can add another dimension to the aquarium experience.5. Poly-Filter Pad
Poly-Bio Filter Pad by Poly-Bio-Marine, Inc., water impurities like phosphate, nitrate, copper, silicate, and even ammonia are absorbed. The pads can be regenerated by simple rinsing in saltwater (saltwater use can be regenerated by the reverse, rinsing in freshwater). Simply roll or cut the pad to any shape, place it inside a canister filter or incorporate it into any type filtration system to easily remove troublesome elements in saltwater aquariums.
6. Purigen (My personal FAVORITE)
Purigen is a synthetic adsorbent, not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water. Purigen removes proteins, nitrites and nitrates, ammonia, and a broad spectrum of organics. Purigen darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with household bleach.
3. MYTH: The ideal reef tank temperature is between 76° and 78° Fahrenheit.
FACT:
The water temperatures of most of the reefs where your corals came from are a lot higher than 78° F.
4. MYTH: Tangs (Surgeonfish) are more sensitive to nitrates than other fish.
FACT:
Surgeonfish are no more sensitive to nitrates than any other species. Tangs have endured nitrate levels of hundreds of ppm for extended periods of time with no ill affects.
5. MYTH: Massive water changes to quickly reduce nitrates and other toxins are harmful to saltwater fish and invertebrates.
FACT:
While a rapid change in salinity, temperature or pH can be harmful to fish and invertebrates, a rapid reduction in nitrates does not adversely affect them.
6. MYTH: Coral Banded Shrimp kill fish.
FACT:
The Coral Banded Shrimp is a scavenger as well as a parasite picker, and may attack other shrimp, but will not normally attack fish. Many people who find their Coral Banded Shrimp consuming a dead fish or invertebrate assume that it was killed by the shrimp. However the shrimp is just doing what it does for a living: Scavenging.
7. MYTH: You can depend on the people in your Local Fish Store to be knowledgeable and to give you good advice.
FACT:
There are a great number of LFS owners/employees who are well experienced in saltwater aquariums and will give you good advice. However a majority of them (usually younger workers) have little or no knowledge or experience in this subject which requires time to learn.
8. MYTH: Bio-Balls or wet/dry filters create nitrates in a saltwater aquarium.
FACT:
Bio-Balls and wet/dry filter material can trap detritus and other tank debris which break down and eventually create nitrates. If the Bio-Balls are cleaned regularly, they don't create any more nitrates than a substrate with the same materials in it.
9. MYTH: Micro Bubbles in Aquarium Water Cause Popeye
FACT:
Popeye is caused by secondary bacterial infections in a fish's eye(s), caused by ammonia burns or other physical damage.
10. MYTH: Ich Can be Transferred From One Tank to Another Through the Air.
FACT:Ich (Cryptocaryon and Oodinium can be transferred from one tank to another via contaminated surfaces, such as nets, hands, fish, etc.
